Part 3/The Push
Wednesday was a quick but cool 200
mile run west through Lovell, WY, north towards Billings, MT and
west again to the town of Livingston. I plugged my Widder
vest in and turned the thermostat on
low for part of this ride. Livingston is an attractive small town.
It sits on the banks of the Yellowstone River surrounded by
mountain ranges and is home to the Institute of Fly Fishing. Every
street seems to be lined with cottonwood trees and drift boats.
There was also an inordinate number of dual-sport motorcycles
parked around town. Some sort of train expo was going on and I was
surprised to see a hometown Norfolk-Southern locomotive sitting on
a rail siding by the train station.
The Crazy Mountains outside of Livingston:
I rode around town for an hour, had
a motel room by 11:00 (this one was planned) and got cleaned up for
my 12:30 business engagement. I could live in this place. After my
meeting I wandered around town some more, did some laundry, bought
food supplies, sent a few postcards and got mentally ready for the
ride to Yellowstone which is about 70 miles south of
town.
Thursday's riding plan was to do
Yellowstone, move on south through Grand Teton and then head east
and camp at Shoshone National Forest off Wyoming hwy26. It was to
be a relaxing route of approximately 250 miles but the National
Weather Service was calling for super-cell T-storms in the
afternoon. I was at the north entrance to Yellowstone by 8:00am. A
five dollar motorcycle discount got me in the park with a multi-day
pass for $15.00. It seems that every picture I wanted to take was
into the sun.
Heading south from Livingston:
The North entrance:
I spent about 4.5 hours riding and
sightseeing in Yellowstone. I've been there twice before but it's
been almost 30 years. I was very disheartened by the extensive fire
damage throughout. No doubt evidence of the NFS's stellar
conservation measures and philosophy.
Lower Falls at the Grand Canyon of
Yellowstone:
Thermal stuff:
Misc. Yellowstone:
I headed south towards Grand Teton
around 12:30 and started to see evidence that the NWS forecast
might be correct. I have never been in Teton. In the past I had
done Yellowstone via an east/west route. The mountains here are
impressive and majestic. The road is boring but the scenery makes
up for the lack of riding thrills in spades. The gathering clouds
were starting to get my attention also.
Grand Teton - this sure isn't Smith Mountain Lake,
Virginia:
About halfway through Grand Teton
Park I turned east on hwy26 towards my intended campsite. As I
started climbing mountains the storms struck. I had pulled on my
FroggToggs just in time using a roadside privy as wind protection.
I crossed the Continental Divide for the last time at 9658 feet
over Togwotee Pass accompanied by fierce winds and pelting rain
with snow on the ground that came right up to the roadbed. I
blasted though all this at 70mph and as I rounded a sweeping curve
to start the descent a female mule deer stepped into the road in
front of me. I gently squeezed the front brake knowing I could do
nothing in this situation on rain slick tarmac but pray. Mule deer
must be smarter than whitetail since she held her ground and
watched me fly by a few feet from her snout. A few minutes later I
was at the Shoshone campground. The area was basically under
standing water from recent snowmelt and rain. Another unforeseen
event. It was 2:00pm and I had decisions to
make.
Approaching the Continental Divide:
Shoshone Campground and Falls: